Skip to main content
Michael W. Twitty sitting with a plate of biscuits in front of a large open fireplace.
Photo: Johnathan M. Lewis

Michael W. Twitty Unpacks the Overlooked History of Southern Food

The culinary historian deftly examines the connections between culture and cuisine.
October 10, 2020
2 minute read
  • Share:

The award-winning African-American Jewish author and culinary historian Michael W. Twitty got his start in food writing after a formative childhood visit to Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia left him intrigued about traditional cooking. Many years later, in 2010, he launched his popular blog, Afroculinaria, as an outlet to document and celebrate the rich cultural histories of African-American fare and the vital role they have played in shaping what we simply refer to today as “Southern” food. A frequent public speaker and figure of the food world, Twitty made waves with his 2017 memoir, The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old Southnot to mention his open letter to Paula Deen, in 2013, that went viral, even as it was left unanswered by the disgraced Food Network host. Reflecting upon his own background, Twitty often draws parallels between the diasporic cuisines of African-American and Jewish communities. “They’re both oppressed cultures, where the luxury of terroir isn’t a reality,” Twitty said in an interview with the Los Angeles Times. “It’s also simply survival—through the mental fortitude of humor, the mental fortitude of memory, and the mental fortitude of resistance.”

We’ve been following Twitty on Instagram (@thecookinggene) to keep abreast of what he’s cooking up next: a new non-profit called the Muloma Heritage Center, located on South Carolina’s historic St. Helena Island. Dedicated to educating visitors on African Atlantic culture, cuisine, and traditions, the organization will spend the next several months building three kitchens and farming the area, setting the stage for Twitty’s vital work to flourish for many years to come.

Keep Reading

Mimi Kuo-Deemer. (Photo: Aaron Deemer)
The Vitalizing Dimensions of Qigong
14 minute read
Clockwise from bottom left: Gohar World Egg Chandelier, Mini; Salvatori Ellipse Mortar and Pestle; Sohn Foot Pillow; Theory11 x Eleven Madison Park Limited-Edition Playing Cards; “Not Too Late”; “Philip Glass Piano Etudes”; Molteni & C Porta Volta Chair; Tom Dixon Tank Wine Set; Haws x Gardenheir watering cans.
Nine Timeless Gifts for the 2023 Holiday Season
6 minute read
The 7 Best Books of the Year
6 minute read
Lara Gilmore. (Photo: Paolo Terzi. Courtesy Phaidon)
Lara Gilmore on the Media That Brings Out Her Inner Child
13 minute read
Cover of “To Free the Captives: A Plea for the American Soul” by Tracy K. Smith. (Courtesy Knopf)
A Liberating, Time-Traveling Journey Through Family, History, and Memory
7 minute read
Katy Bowman. (Photo: Mahina Hawley)
Katy Bowman on Why “Movement Nutrition” Matters
14 minute read
Emilia Terragni. (Courtesy Phaidon)
Phaidon’s Emilia Terragni on the Media That Satiates Her Roving Curiosity
11 minute read
Cover of “Open Questions: Thirty Years of Writing About Art” by Helen Molesworth. (Courtesy Phaidon)
With “Open Questions,” Helen Molesworth Opens Up New Ways of Seeing Art
5 minute read
Stefan Sagmeister. (Photo: Victor G. Jeffreys II)
Stefan Sagmeister Finds Optimism in the Long View
24 minute read
William B. Irvine. (Photo: Lyndon French)
How Stoicism Can Cultivate Joy
12 minute read
Spike Lee. (Courtesy Jamel Shabazz)
Spike Lee’s Prolific Career Gets the Spotlight, Naturally, in Brooklyn
5 minute read
Roxane Gay. (Photo: Reginald Cunningham)
Roxane Gay Balances Her Content Intake Between the Real and the Imagined
9 minute read
Cover of “Roman Stories” by Jhumpa Lahiri. (Courtesy Knopf)
The Gossamer Glow of Jhumpa Lahiri’s “Roman Stories”
7 minute read
Installation view of Edmund de Waal’s solo exhibition “this must be the place” (2023) at Gagosian in New York. (© Edmund de Waal. Photo: Rob McKeever. Courtesy Gagosian)
5 Exhibitions You Can’t Miss This Fall
9 minute read
Lindsey Bro. (Photo: Laura Austin)
Lindsey Bro on the Cathartic, Humanizing Effect of Bathing Rituals
14 minute read
Dr. Gary Cooper, founder of the re-commerce company Rheaply, speaking at the fair. (Courtesy Emerson Collective)
At New York’s Climate Week, a “Climate Science Fair” Cultivates Optimism and Future-Forward Thinking
7 minute read
David W. Orr. (Photo: John Seyfried)
David W. Orr on the Inextricable Links Between Climate and Democracy
30 minute read
William Hanley. (Photo: Brian W. Ferry. Courtesy Dwell)
William Hanley on Media That Adds a Bit of Whimsy to the Everyday
16 minute read
Aerial view of Tom Lee Park. (Photo: Connor Ryan. Courtesy Memphis River Parks Partnership)
A Dynamic, City-Defining Riverfront Park Grows in Memphis
8 minute read
Christopher John Rogers. (Photo: Robin Kitchin. Courtesy Farrow & Ball)
The Vibrant, Kaleidoscopic Color Theory of Christopher John Rogers
26 minute read
Cover of “The Ugly History of Beautiful Things: Essays on Desire and Consumption” by Katy Kelleher. (Courtesy Simon and Schuster)
Desiring Beauty, Even If It Kills Us
8 minute read
Courtesy Eddie Stern
Eddie Stern on the Physiological and Spiritual Power of Pranayama
29 minute read
vanessa german. (Photo: AJ Mitchell Photography. Courtesy Kasmin, New York)
vanessa german on Art as a Way of Life and Love as a “Human Technology”
43 minute read
Courtesy Daphne Javitch
The Go-To Routines and Rituals of Daphne Javitch
11 minute read
Beverly Nguyen. (Photo: Sean Davidson)
Beverly Nguyen’s Highly Tactile Taste in Media
19 minute read
Cover of “Look: How to Pay Attention in a Distracted World” by Christian Madsbjerg. (Courtesy Riverhead Books)
In “Look,” Christian Madsbjerg Celebrates the Slow, Patient Act of Observation
8 minute read
Courtesy Sara Auster
Sara Auster on Fine-Tuning Your Life Through Sound Therapy
19 minute read
Installation view of the Herzog & de Meuron exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts, London (14 July – 15 October 2023). Photo © Royal Academy of Arts, London / David Parry. © Herzog & de Meuron
A Herzog & de Meuron Exhibition Emphasizes Architecture as Collective, Not Egocentric
5 minute read
Priya Khanchandani. (Photo: Prarthna Singh)
Priya Khanchandani on the Media That Inspires Her Curatorial Work
10 minute read
Vivian Rosenthal. (Courtesy Frequency Breathwork)
Vivian Rosenthal on the Profound Power of Holotropic Breathwork
12 minute read
Pedro Gadanho. (Courtesy Actar Publishers)
Pedro Gadanho on How Architecture Must Adapt to Our Ecological Emergency
24 minute read
Courtesy Farrar, Straus and Giroux
In “Ordinary Notes,” Christina Sharpe Weaves a Profound Portrait of Black Life
7 minute read
David Adjaye (Photo: Anoush Abrar. Courtesy Adjaye Associates)
The Alchemy of David Adjaye’s Architecture
32 minute read
(Courtesy Millana Snow)
Millana Snow’s New Well-Being Plan
12 minute read
Installation view of “Thaddeus Mosley: Forest” at the Nasher Sculpture Center in Dallas. (Photo: Kevin Todora. Courtesy Nasher Sculpture Center)
5 Exhibitions You Must See This Summer
8 minute read
Jaé Joseph.
Jaé Joseph on Broadening Notions of Luxury and Well-Being
11 minute read
Lina Ghotmeh. (Photo: Harry Richards. Courtesy Serpentine Galleries)
The Poetic, Humanistic Architecture of Lina Ghotmeh
29 minute read
Cover of “Worlds Without End” (2023) by Chris Impey. (Courtesy MIT Press)
Chris Impey on the New Space Race and Exoplanet Habitation
17 minute read
Norman Teague. (Photo: Ross Floyd. Courtesy Norman Teague Studios)
Norman Teague on How He Keeps His Finger on the Pulse
16 minute read
View of Thomas J Price’s “Beyond Measure” exhibition at Hauser & Wirth’s Downtown Los Angeles gallery. (Photo: Keith Lubow. Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth)
With His Monumental Bronze Sculptures, Thomas J Price Honors the Everyday Features of Black Life
6 minute read